Description
A paintable 1:144 miniature of a Gotha G.IV, the famous German WWI bomber. Since many painters choose their own mounting system, no peg is included on the plane. Pegs can be purchased separately in the Accessories section of this catalog.
Fifty-two Gotha G.IV bombers were ordered in August 1916, with additional orders for 150 from L.V.G. and eighty from Siemens-Schuckert. Another forty were built by LVG for Austria-Hungary adapted for Hiero engines. The G.IV was a refinement of the Gotha G.III, with the same engines but the introduction of a tunnel through which the rear gunner could fire downward through the fuselage. The tunnel allowed a firing arc of 25° laterally and 60° vertically. The G.IV’s fuselage was plywood-skinned but still braced as if covered with fabric, making it extremely resilient. Fuel tanks were placed inside the engine nacelles.
Their first successful daylight raid on London occurred on 25 May 1917, spurring Britain to greatly increase Home Defense. Losses through the summer pushed the Gothas into night bombing by autumn of 1917, and the challenges of night landings increased with the need for nighttime bombing runs. Most Gotha losses were due to accidents. In fact, landing accidents accounted for 76% of all Gotha losses
In Austria-Hungary the G.IVs arrived in spring of 1918 but did not fly missions until summer. Most were powered by a pair of 230-240hp Hiero engines. They were designated the Gotha G.IV(LVG) Series 08. While thirty-seven remained on the rolls in August 1918, only a few were serviceable due to problems with the engines, landing accidents, and other problems.
For more data and gaming info on this plane, see https://linen.miraheze.org/wiki/Gotha_G.IV.
Shipping: Shipping varies from about US$7 to US$15 per order, depending on the destination country. See your cart for an exact number — the prices may vary with currency fluctuations. Orders over US$300 may get free shipping (but see the note on mixed materials).
Mixed Materials: Nylon prints are shipped from a different factory than resin prints, so if you place an order with a mix of Nylon and Resin, you will be charged shipping for each material, and each will arrive separately.
Taxes: Sales tax — where applicable — will be added for U.S. shipments. Value-added taxes (VAT) may (or may not) be collected by your postal carrier on receipt, which is known as “Delivery At Place”. Unfortunately, since my printing and shipping partner has no way of marking shipments as VAT-paid, this website cannot collect VAT on your behalf.
Customs: Most orders should be small enough to avoid customs duties, but you may want to check your local regulations. If duties are due, they may be collected by your postal carrier. E.U. customers may be able to avoid duties by keeping their order under €150.
No refunds are available, because your order is custom-printed when it is received. There is no inventory or stock to which it can be returned.
Reprints are available for planes damaged during shipping. See https://www.greatwarplanes.com/refund_returns/ for details.
Grey Resin: Models printed in Grey Resin material are printed with sprue-style supports while they are printed. The supports are removed in the factory before shipping. But be aware that some of the supports might be missed if they are mistaken for plane parts, and some of the attachment points might need smoothing before painting. I have seen good results — with almost no visible leftovers — in test prints. But this may not be universal because it depends on whoever is operating the printer the day your miniature is printed.
Bent Wings: Due to the need to protect miniatures during shipping, the miniatures may arrive with wings that are not perfectly straight (or, in the case of wings with dihedral, at the right angle)¹. If the warping is too severe, or if correcting it results in a broken plane, you can apply for a reprint as outlined above. To correct modest warping, you can heat the model with hot water or with a blow-dryer until the wings become pliable, straighten them, and then cool the model with cool water or room-temperature air. (I have used the blow-dryer method with good success.) I do not know what temperature is best — you’ll have to experiment, starting on the low side and using only gentle pressure. You just want to make the model pliable without it melting (too hot) or breaking under gentle pressure (too cool). Please use the normal precautions you’d use with any operation with hot water, air, and plastic.
Since — as you have gathered — you can bend the model when it’s under high temperature, I would suggest avoiding leaving your prints in a very hot environment such as a locked car under the summer sun.
¹ This was especially true during a period when the planes were shipped in a clamshell-plastic case, which should no longer happen.
